I'm a refugee', declared a particularly well-dressed attendee at a wine tasting in London last month, adding as he swirled a glassful of crimson liquid, 'and like all refugees I'm traumatised. Is this the same as burgundy, I wonder?'
He may have a somewhat insensitive way of describing his flight from increasingly expensive red burgundy, but this wine enthusiast is not alone in feeling alienated, And he is no cheapskate. The last time we met had been at a dinner at which he had provided a bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1971 Romanée-St-Vivant. But, like so many wine lovers devoted to France's infinite variations on the theme of Pinot Noir, recent Côte d'Or price rises have stuck in his throat and here he was at an event designed to showcase answers to red burgundy from … Germany.
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