The nose, while anything but broad, is forthright and assertive. This meets you well over half way, and as a drinker it can be refreshing to encounter something so expressive. Complex, savoury notes attack first, followed by a depth of stonefruit and spice that promises much in the mouth. Although a wine of some volume, this retains plenty of detail in its aroma, and will reward extended nosing. Quite explosive in the mouth, with a burst of fruit-driven flavour that leaps past the entry onto a mid-palate of considerable force. Citrus is more in evidence as a flavour component here, freshening the palate and providing a welcome counterpoint to other, richer fruit flavours. There’s a brightness to this wine, not acid-driven but simply as a result of its happy flavours, that is deeply gratifying, like the smile of a handsome stranger. Flavours become progressively more savoury and the palate tightens through the finish with a lick of phenolics and a shake of fresh herbs.