The relevance of colour is something that is hotly debated in wine circles, but when it comes to rosé, there’s no doubt it matters. The first thing, therefore, to note about this wine is its gorgeously deep salmon tint, not quite lurid yet far from the anaemic rosé shades that were fashionable for a time. This is a pleasure to look at, as all rosés should be.
To the nose, which immediately announces the seriousness of this wine’s style. Experienced wine lovers will know that rosé comes in a broad range of styles, some of which can carry a sweet, confectionary edge to the aroma. Not so here. While very accessible, the aroma shows firmly savoury notes of rhubarb, red berries and earthy sous-bois; it’s very much a high fashion (as opposed to a high street) expression of this style. Despite this sophistication, there’s a depth and generosity evident that suggest a well proportioned wine in the mouth.
On tasting, that promise is amply fulfilled, the wine exploding with fresh fruit flavour and a wonderfully modulated acid structure. The flavour profile recalls nothing so much as biting into a fresh, crunchy red berry and feeling its flesh explode into the mouth. But it’s no one trick pony, and even as fruit flavour expresses itself, one notices many nuances both in flavour and structure. An edge of tartness frames core fruit flavours and brings wonderful freshness. Texture and grip take hold as the line progresses, turning what seems at first to be a fruit-driven wine into something wholly more sophisticated and enjoyable. The wine closes on a savoury spice note.
Julian Coldrey [March 2016, commissioned by TMBT]
The grapes were hand harvested and on arrival at the winery, 90% destemmed to holding vessels for 24 hours on skins. The grapes were then pressed and the juice transferred to old French oak barriques before a spontaneous wild ferment. No malolactic fermentation and the wine spent 2 months in barrique before being racked off lees to third fill puncheons for an additional 3 months. The wine was then transferred to tank before being bottled unfined and filtered.